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Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli is constantly on the plot their own modernist course, delivering the sort of minimalist uniforms a forward-thinker like Daniel Libeskind might choose, were he 20 years younger and more fun. Zucchelli pairs spare, techno-fabric suits with air-soled sneakers and buttoned-up shirts that need no ties.
Caught somewhere in between the classic Calvin Klein image plus a desiring a standout look for the growing season, the newest add the label gets lost in the sea of awkward cuts, unflattering fabrics plus a wide spectrum of color.
The good news included a jacket pants and tee outfit in sand tones that has been as elegant as anything Zucchelli has ever designed, a broad-shouldered suit having a gray marbled fleck, as well as the cloudburst version that closed the show. Other looks, just like the shiny, oversize chino shirts, suffered from a slew of strange proportions.
The athletic theme also arrived in vertically and horizontally striped tops and pants that come up with illusion of your single piece; they appeared to be we were holding waiting to be branded having a product, like a F1 driver’s coveralls. Zucchelli excels at exploring that sort of futuristic, man-as-automaton notion, but there was something literal concerning this take that felt less sophisticated than usual.